Beginner Rock Climbing in Tahoe: The Best Crags to Start Outdoors

Trad climbing at Donner Summit near Truckee, CA. 

If you’ve been rock climbing in the gym and you’re ready to take your climbing to the next level in the Truckee/Tahoe area, keep reading! Whether you're interested in top roping, trad climbing, sport climbing, or multi-pitch climbing, this guide breaks down the best spots for rock climbing in Tahoe — so you can spend more time on the rock and less time searching. 

We'll Cover:

Best Top Roping Spots for Rock Climbing in Tahoe

Don’t be surprised if you find the transition from gym climbing to outdoor rock climbing in Tahoe to be more challenging than expected. Making the move from color coded jugs to tiny crimps that you can hardly see can be quite the shocker. Luckily the Tahoe area has a good amount of top roping crags that let you focus on the climbing without worrying about the gear too much. We cannot emphasize enough the importance of taking a course from a professional to gain the necessary skills to rock climb outdoors safely. 

90 Foot Wall

Along the West Shore of Lake Tahoe lies the 90-foot wall. The approach is fairly short and easy, but your crux of the day will be beating the tourists and traffic exploring Emerald Bay and the surrounding areas. Get there early if you want to find parking. 

Not only does this crag have both easy and moderate climbs, but it also offers top roping and lead climbing on both face and crack routes. It’s no wonder that the routes are polished from so much traffic — this spot is one of the most popular for beginner rock climbing in Tahoe.

Johnny Wall

Johnny Wall is just off Interstate 80 on your way to Tahoe, making it a great stop for beginner rock climbing in the Tahoe region. This is an excellent location for family or kid’s rock climbing near Tahoe as it offers eight routes from 5.5 up to 5.9 and they are all top ropable. The approach is easy - about a one-minute walk from the road!

If it’s a super-hot day, this may not be your best bet as it’s lower in elevation than Tahoe and also South facing, but the South Yuba River is just down the road if you want to jump in afterwards. 

Rappelling while outdoor rock climbing in Truckee, CA. 

Best Beginner Trad Climbing Areas in Tahoe

If you want to find splitter cracks and sandbagged ratings in Tahoe, look no further than trad climbing at Donner Summit. Just like anchor building, learning to place cams and build trad anchors is an essential skill that we highly recommend you learn from an AMGA trained guide.

School Rock - Donner Summit

You can practice placing gear and building trad anchors at Nursery School Slab, one of the most approachable spots for beginner trad rock climbing in Tahoe. The hardest climb on Mountain Project is 5.4 and makes a great place to build confidence with placing gear.  

Once you feel dialed at Nursery School, you can graduate to Kindergarten and climb the first pitch of Kindergarten Crack. Once you learn multi pitch rock climbing skills, you can complete this climb in two pitches if you want! 

Best Beginner Sport Climbing Areas near Near Tahoe

The Emeralds

If you’re new to outdoor sport climbing near Lake Tahoe, The Emeralds offer a great variety of crags with lower grades and fun sport climbing.  Some routes can be a little sporty, with bolts spaced father than you might like, so be sure to give your chosen route a good look and read the comments before jumping on lead if you're pushing your grades.  

Big Chief

Big Chief is a great crag for sport climbing in Tahoe, offering steep climbs with positive holds on solid, volcanic rock. If you're feeling strong from climbing at the gym, are comfortable leading and are looking for a place to learn to rock climb outdoors, you'll love Big Chief!  If you’re a brand-new sport climber, The Chief may not be your best option.

The bolting is generally well done, and with a ton of routes packed into a small area, the density of climbing at The Chief makes it a great place to cram in a lot of climbs.  It's also a nice change of pace from the old-school granite trad climbing of Donner Summit!

Learning to rock climb outdoors at Donner Summit near Truckee, CA.

Best Beginner Multi Pitch Rock Climbing Near Tahoe

Lover’s Leap

The Caldor Fire ripped through this glorious place during the summer of 2021, but the trails have been repaired and the granite rock climbing is still splitter. If you’re new to multi pitch rock climbing, the Hogsback offers a few great options where you can practice dialing in your systems. The first pitch of Knapsack Crack is rated as a 5.2 and offers a bomber (unquestionably solid) tree anchor. The second pitch bumps up to 5.4 and then 5.5. The lower grades let you focus on your gear and systems rather than the climbing - take it one step at a time! Lover's Leap remains one of the all-time best spots for Multi-Pitch climbing in the US!

Please note: none of these suggestions are considered “safe” but they are good options from our personal experience. Before you begin your outdoor rock-climbing career, consider hiring an AMGA trained guide to teach you the skills needed to climb safely. Don’t rely on your buddies who watched a few Youtube videos to teach you. Take a class from a trained professional and get hands-on experience with some guided rock climbing in Tahoe.

Best Seasons for Rock Climbing in Tahoe

The Tahoe climbing season typically runs from late spring through early fall, though the best time to climb depends a bit on the elevation and sun exposure of each crag.

• May to June: Lower elevation areas like Johnny Wall and 90 Foot Wall start to open up as snow melts. Donner Summit can still hold snow into late May most years.

• July to September: This is the prime rock climbing season in Tahoe. Warm days, dry weather, and long daylight hours make it ideal for exploring all the major crags.

• October: Cooler temps and fewer crowds can make for excellent late-season climbing, especially on south-facing walls. Be prepared for colder mornings and shorter days.

• Winter: Most outdoor climbing shuts down as snow and ice cover the rock, but indoor climbing gyms in Truckee, Reno, the Bay Area and Sacramento stay open year-round to keep you in shape.

Always check recent trip reports and local Tahoe conditions before heading out — Tahoe’s mountain weather can change quickly.

Essential Gear for Rock Climbing in Tahoe

The gear you'll need depends on the type of climbing you're doing. Here’s a basic breakdown to help you pack for your Tahoe rock climbing trip:

Top Roping

• Climbing harness

• Helmet

• Climbing shoes

• Dynamic climbing rope (60-70m)

• Anchor materials (slings, locking carabiners, cordelette)

• Belay device

Check out our Single Pitch Rock Climbing Gear Guide

Sport Climbing

• All top rope gear above, plus:

• Quickdraws (10-12)

• Personal anchor system for cleaning anchors

Trad Climbing

• All top rope gear above, plus:

• Full trad rack (cams, nuts, hexes)

• Additional locking carabiners

• Nut tool

• Extra slings and cordelette for building anchors

Multi-Pitch Climbing

• All trad gear above, plus:

• Twin ropes or tag line (depending on route)

• Lightweight backpack for food, water, layers

• Communication system (radio or whistle)

• Light alpine rack depending on objective

Check out our Multi Pitch Rock Climbing Gear Guide

Other Essentials

• Guidebook or route beta (Mountain Project is a good resource)

• Approach shoes or hiking boots

• Weather-appropriate layers (Tahoe mornings can be chilly even in summer)

• Sunscreen and sunglasses

• First aid kit

Pro Tip: If you're new to climbing outside, consider taking a guided rock climbing course (see below) or hiring a certified guide to help you learn systems, anchor building, and risk management skills specific to outdoor rock climbing in Tahoe. If you're on a course, we can provide all of the gear you'll need. All you need to join is climbing shoes, a harness, and a helmet. You can rent all three from us!

Rock Climbing Courses in Tahoe to Improve Your Skills

Private Rock Climbing in Tahoe 

Intro to Outdoor Rock Climbing / Gym to Crag Course

Rock Climbing Anchor Building Course

Intro to Trad Climbing 

About the Author

Zeb Blais is an IFMGA Mountain Guide and AIARE Course Leader based in Truckee California. He loves all the disciplines of mountain guiding - ski, rock and alpine climbing - but skiing is his first love.  In the winter he enjoys backcountry skiing, guiding local and international ski trips, and teaching avalanche courses across the west coast, from Bishop, California to Mt Baker, Washington.