We'll tackle the following objectives and skills:

• The North Face of Mount Shuksan offers up a myriad of climbing challenges on one of the most iconic peaks in the North Cascades. - If you love steep snow and ice and are looking for a next level climb to challenge your movement skills on moderate rock, huge glaciers and large-scale, exposed slopes, look no further!


• The Route - With a commitment rating of Grade IV, this climb is involved. Starting with the approach day, the climb involves three long (and exciting) days of climbing with full packs. We typically approach via the 4th Class rock gullies of the Fisher Chimneys, descend the White Salmon Glacier, and set camp at the base of the North Face.


• Summit Attempt - we have a few options to get to the summit, including the Northeast Ridge, the Southeast Ridge and the normal route. They all involve moderate rock climbing between 4th Class and 5.6, and all culminate on the exposed summit block with 360 degree views of the North Cascades.


• Descent - After taking a few moments on the summit, it’s time. From the top, rappelling and downclimbing gets us back to the Sulphide Glacier, where we navigate back to the Upper Curtis and return to camp. Our final day of the climb is downclimbing the Fisher Chimneys and a pleasant hike back to Artist Point.


• Confirmed Wilderness Reservations - Overnight trips in the North Cascades National Park require wilderness permits. We have reserved a prime date window for the 2024 season, which is guaranteed:

August 12-15, 2024

* Non-Reserved Wilderness Dates mean that we do not currently have these dates reserved with wilderness permits. We can usually get reservations for these dates and there are other camping options if we are unable to obtain a wilderness camping permit.

Here's the schedule for your trip:

• Day 1 - Gear Check and Approach to Winnies Slide - We meet early for a gear check in Glacier, WA. After packing up, we'll begin the approach to camp on a beautiful hike through fir trees and alpine meadows, passing Lake Ann on the way to camp at Winnies Slide. The approach to camp is a long day that often takes 6-8 hours.


• Day 2 -Descend the White Salmon Glacier - Today we position ourselves at the base of the North Face by descending the White Salmon Glacier. This allows us to get an early start on climbing the North Face of Mt Shuksan the following day.


• Day 3 - Summit Attempt - We'll start early to climb Mount Shuksan's long and steep North Face. From the Hanging Glacier we have a number of options to gain the summit, ranging from 4th class rock to moderate 5th class rock.
  Once we gain the summit, we'll take a brief rest and soak in the views before we descend the summit pyramid using a combination of rappels and downclimbing.
  After reaching the Sulphide Glacier we'll continue our descent to Hell's Highway and the Upper Curtis Glacier enroute to our camp at Winnie's Slide.


• Day 4 - Break Down Camp & Return to the Trailhead - On our final day, we'll pack up camp and return to the Artist Point trailhead by descending the chimneys and reversing our course through the old growth forest. This usually takes around 5 hours.

Here are the skills and fitness you'll need for your course:

• Intermediate Alpine Climbing Experience - Including basic rope skills, experience with belaying, rappelling and technical climbing on 4th and 5th class rock. Depending on the time of year, crampon and ice axe techniques may be required.


• Excellent fitness - Able to spend 12-16 continuous hours outside, moving uphill at over 1,000’ per hour for durations of 1-2 hours between breaks. Participants should be able to hike 12-15 miles, climbing 3,000-6,000 vertical feet throughout the course of the day. People with excellent fitness typically have a strenuous workout 4-6 days per week. Be ready for a sufferfest!


• Mountaineering Gear - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from us

Here's what's included with your trip:

• Experienced AMGA Trained Guide
• Ropes & Gear
• Tent
• Stove & Fuel
• Group Safety Gear - your guide will be equipped with snow science tools and a first aid kit
• Wag Bags - for human waste disposal in with compliance 'Leave No Trace' principles

• Meals
• Ice Axe, Crampons, Climbing Harness
• Guide Gratuities

Mt Shuksan North Face Gear List

• Mountaineering Gear (ice ax, crampon, harness) - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from Blackbird


• Other Mountaineering Gear (sleeping bag, pad, etc.) - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from:
  • Backcountry Essentials in Bellingham