Classic Zermatt 4000ers: Breithorn Traverse, Pollux & Castor
An unforgettable alpine adventure that links three of the most iconic 4000m peaks in the Swiss Alps with Matterhorn prep options to dial in rock skills. From the wild ridges of the Breithorn to the snow aretes of Castor and the technical rock steps of Pollux, this program delivers a perfect blend of classic alpine climbing in one of the world’s most stunning mountain arenas.
Each itinerary features varied and exciting climbing with steep snow, airy ridges, and engaging rock - perfect for climbers who want the full flavor of the Alps. Whether your goal is to tick off your first 4000ers, acclimatize for a bigger climb like the Matterhorn, or simply enjoy world-class alpine routes, this program is an incredible foray into climbing in the Swiss Alps.
See our Itinerary Tab for details on each of the options for this climb!
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3 Day Breithorn Traverse, Pollux & Castor
This itinerary tackles 3 classic 4000m peaks in the Swiss Alps of Zermatt. From glacier climbing on Castor to the rock steps of Pollux and the wild rock and ridge climbing of the Breithorn Traverse, this itinerary packs 3 incredible climbs into 3 days. It's a perfect way to get on top of some of Switzerland's most famous peaks or acclimatize for other peaks in the area.
Day 0 – Gear Check
Meet your guide in Zermatt for a comprehensive gear check, trip briefing, and packing guidance. Overnight in Zermatt lodging (not included) in preparation for the climb.
Day 1 – Pollux Ascent & Ayas Hut
Ride the lift to Klein Matterhorn (Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, ~3,820 m). Traverse across glacial terrain and climb Pollux via its mixed snow and rock routes. Descend to the Rifugio Ayas (~3,425 m) for dinner and overnight. (H, D)
Day 2 – Castor Ascent
Early alpine start to ascend Castor (4,223 m) via its elegant snow ridge. Return to the Rifugio Ayas for a second night, enjoying dinner and rest at the hut. (H, D, B)
Day 3 – Breithorn Traverse & Return
Climb the Breithorn, choosing either the classic full traverse or the half traverse depending on conditions and team fitness. Descend back to Klein Matterhorn and take the gondola to Zermatt, concluding the trip in the village by afternoon. (B)
3 Day Matterhorn Prep: Breithorn, Pollux, Riffelhorn
This itinerary focuses on rock movement to help gear up for a Matterhorn attempt. It provides a day of multipitch rock on the Riffelhorn, then moves to Pollux and the Breithorn Traverse for days 2 and 3. It’s a great way to tick a couple 4000m peaks, get in a few pitches of fun rock, build acclimatization and get skills dialed for climbing the Matterhorn.
Day 0 – Gear Check
Meet your guide in Zermatt for a comprehensive gear check, trip briefing, and packing guidance. Overnight in Zermatt lodging (not included) in preparation for the climb.
Day 1 – Rifelhorn Climb
Ride the Gondola to the Riffleburg station and hike to the base of the renowned Riffelhorn. We’ll climb multiple pitches of low 5th class rock to reach the summit of the Riffelhorn with staggering views of the Matterhorn, Dufourspitze and Monte Rosa Massif.
Day 2 – Pollux Ascent & Ayas Hut
Ride the lift to Klein Matterhorn (Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, ~3,820 m). Traverse across glacial terrain and climb Pollux via its mixed snow and rock routes. Descend to the Rifugio Ayas (~3,425 m) for dinner and overnight. (H, D)
Day 3 – Breithorn Traverse & Return
Climb the Breithorn, choosing either the classic full traverse or the half traverse depending on conditions and team fitness. Descend back to Klein Matterhorn and take the gondola to Zermatt, concluding the trip in the village by afternoon. (B)
4 Day Matterhorn Prep: Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Riffelhorn
Climb three 4,000m peaks with a day of multipitch rock climbing to boot! This itinerary builds solid acclimatization and tunes up rock movement skills to prepare for the Matterhorn. After a day of multipitch rock on the Riffelhorn, we move into our 3 Day Breithorn Traverse, Pollux & Castor itinerary. This provides a lot of flexibility in the program for weather and conditions and is a ton of fun to climb all these peaks!
Day 0 – Gear Check
Meet your guide in Zermatt for a comprehensive gear check, trip briefing, and packing guidance. Overnight in Zermatt lodging (not included) in preparation for the climb.
Day 1 – Rifelhorn Climb
Ride the Gondola to the Riffleburg station and hike to the base of the renowned Riffelhorn. We’ll climb multiple pitches of low 5th class rock to reach the summit of the Riffelhorn with staggering views of the Matterhorn, Dufourspitze and Monte Rosa Massif. A truly fun day in the Swiss Alps!
Day 2-4: 3 Day Breithorn Traverse, Pollux & Castor Itinerary
See Above, 3 Day Breithorn Traverse, Pollux & Castor
Provisions: H = Hut Provided D = Dinner Provided B = Breakfast Provided
Here are the skills and fitness you'll need for your course:
- Intermediate Alpine Climbing Experience - Including cramponing and ice axe techniques including self arrest practice, basic rope skills. You should feel comfortable on steep, firm slopes of 40 degrees or more.
- Glacier Travel Experience - You should have experience on travelling on crevassed glaciers on a rope team.
- Excellent fitness - Able to spend 12-16 continuous hours outside, moving uphill at over 1,000’ per hour for durations of 1-2 hours between breaks. Participants should be able to hike 12-15 miles, climbing 3,000-6,000 vertical feet throughout the course of the day. People with excellent fitness typically have a strenuous workout 4-6 days per week. Be ready for a difficult day in the mountains!
- Mountaineering Gear - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from us
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Visit our Rentals Page
Here's what's included with your trip:
- IFMGA / UIAA Licensed Mountain Guide
- Lift tickets for you and your guide, round trip from Zermatt
- Lodging and Half Board at the Ayas Hut (Dinner and Breakfast)
- Ropes & Group Climbing Gear
Not Included
- Bottled Water or Extra Food at Huts
- Sleeping Bag Liner for Huts
- Personal Climbing Gear and Layers
- Guide Gratuities
Huts really simplify the gear needed for alpine climbing in the Alps. Download our Matterhorn Hornli Hutte Based Alpine Climbing Gear List Here:
🔽 Download the Matterhorn Hornli Ridge Gear List
Download our List above for the full Matterhorn Hornli Ridge Gear List, but here are a few items to get you started:
Mountaineering Gear
- Light, 3 Season Mountaineering Boots
- Ice Axe
- Crampons
- Climbing Harness
- 1x LARGE Locking Carabiner (Petzl William, etc)
- 2x Locking Carabiners (Petzl Attache, etc)
- Adjustable Tether (Petzl Connect Adjust)
Overnight Gear
- Headlamp
- Sleeping Bag Liner
Clothing & Accessories
Technical Outerwear (jacket, bibs/pants)
Multiple Midlayer Options
Gloves
Helmet
Beanie
Baseball Cap
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hydration Pack (2L) (PRACTICE USING BEFORE THE CLIMB)
Food- Energy Bars/Chews/Gels for energy during the climb