We'll tackle the following objectives and skills:

• Push Your Limits - Take your alpine climbing to the next level with one of the 50 Classics Climbs of North America!


• The Route - The West Ridge route begins from camp with a perfect warm up climb up on angle snow and a rapidly receding glacier, which soon becomes a steep snow couloir. In early season, this couloir extends to the notch at the start of the West Ridge proper and later it becomes difficult and climbers opt to take the Cat Scratch Gullies, a scrappy option that lends some grit to the climb.


• Summit Attempt - Once at the notch, beautiful granite is the only thing between you and the summit. The climbing is grippy, blocky and featured and mostly low 5th class. The crux weighs in at 5.6 but isn’t sustained for long and the exposure is as incredible as the views. The movement is fun and fluid and it makes for a great climb. Once atop Forbidden’s small summit block, climbers are rewarded with incredible views of Mount Buckner, the Boston Glacier, the Forbidden Glacier, Johannesburg Peak.


• Descent - After taking a few moments on the summit, it’s time to descend. The easiest way down is to reverse the ascent, and this is often as time consuming as the ascent. Be ready for engaging down-climbing and rappels.

* Non-Reserved Wilderness mean that we do not currently have specific dates reserved with wilderness permits. We can usually get reservations for most dates and there are other camping options if we are unable to obtain a wilderness camping permit.

Here's the schedule for your trip:

• Day 1 - Gear Check and Approach to Boston Basin - Gear Check: Meet early for a gear check in Marblemont, WA. Our guides will double check that you have all the right gear for the trip and help you minimize weight, decide on the perfect layers to pack, and choose how much food and water to bring.
  Approach to Boston Basin: Roughly 3-4 hours to camp with 3,000’ of elevation gain over 3 miles on a rough climber’s trail. We’ll get to camp, brush up on skills and get to bed early to rest up before our alpine start the next morning.


• Day 2 -Traverse Boston & Camp on the North Ridge - With an early start, we ascend to the Sharkfin Col where we rappel onto the Boston Glacier. After Traversing the Boston Glacier to the North Ridge of Forbidden, we make a short but awkward ascent to a saddle on the knife-edge North ridge of Forbidden, where we set camp on a wildly exposed bivy site. High above the Boston and Forbidden Glaciers, we prepare for summit day and rest for the night.


• Day 3 - Summit Attempt We rise before dawn to get to the start of challenging climbing by first light. There are two options for this climb, one directly up the rock ridge to the summit of Forbidden Peak, and the other up a steep snow and alpine ice face. You and your guide will determine which route is best for your team based on skills, desire and conditions. This is a committing route, with little option for retreat, so it is imperative that you have the skills, strength and endurance to make the summit.
  After gaining the summit, we descend the lengthy and wildly exposed West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. This descent requires substantial down climbing on steep rock, rappelling, and descending on steep snow with crampons and ice axe. Back at camp, we'll have a hot dinner and get some rest!


• Day 4 - Return to the Trailhead After some much-earned sleep, we pack up camp and head back to the trailhead to finish the trip. The descent usually takes 2.5-3.5 hours.

Here are the skills and fitness you'll need for your course:

• Intermediate Alpine Climbing Experience - Including basic rope skills, experience with belaying, rappelling and technical climbing on 4th and 5th class rock. Depending on the time of year, crampon and ice axe techniques may be required. Looking to build these skills? Join us for an Intro to Mountaineering course!


• Excellent fitness - Able to spend 12-16 continuous hours outside, moving uphill at over 1,000’ per hour for durations of 1-2 hours between breaks. Participants should be able to hike 12-15 miles, climbing 3,000-6,000 vertical feet throughout the course of the day. People with excellent fitness typically have a strenuous workout 4-6 days per week. Be ready for a sufferfest!

Here's what's included with your trip:

• Experienced AMGA Trained Guide
• North Cascades National Park Permit
• Ropes & Gear
• SlingFin Tent
• Stove & Fuel
• Group Safety Gear - your guide will be equipped with snow science tools and a first aid kit
• Wag Bags - for human waste disposal in with compliance 'Leave No Trace' principles

• Meals
• Transportation
• Personal Mountaineering Gear - ice axe, crampons, climbing harness
• Guide Gratuities

North Cascades Alpine Climbing Gear List

• Mountaineering Gear (ice ax, crampon, harness) - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from Blackbird


• Other Mountaineering Gear (sleeping bag, pad, etc.) - Come prepared with your own gear or rent from:
  • Backcountry Essentials in Bellingham