Forbidden Peak West Ridge

The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is an outstanding alpine route and has proven its standing as one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. A true Cascadian approach (read: overgrown and rugged) leads climbers to Boston Basin, an iconic rock amphitheatre choked with glacial ice that feeds the creeks and lush meadows below.
Overview
Itinerary
Prerequisites
Inclusions
Gear

We'll tackle the following objectives and skills:

  • Push Your Limits - Take your alpine climbing to the next level with one of the 50 Classics Climbs of North America!

  • The Route - The West Ridge route begins from camp with a perfect warm up climb up on angle snow and a rapidly receding glacier, which soon becomes a steep snow couloir. In early season, this couloir extends to the notch at the start of the West Ridge proper and later it becomes difficult and climbers opt to take the Cat Scratch Gullies, a scrappy option that lends some grit to the climb.

  • Summit Attempt - Once at the notch, beautiful granite is the only thing between you and the summit. The climbing is grippy, blocky and featured and mostly low 5th class. The crux weighs in at 5.6 but isn’t sustained for long and the exposure is as incredible as the views. The movement is fun and fluid and it makes for a great climb. Once atop Forbidden’s small summit block, climbers are rewarded with incredible views of Mt Buckner, the Boston Glacier, the Forbidden Glacier, Johannesburg Peak.

  • Descent - After taking a few moments on the summit, it’s time to descend. The easiest way down is to reverse the ascent, and this is often as time consuming as the ascent. Be ready for engaging down-climbing and rappels.
  • * Non-Reserved Wilderness mean that we do not currently have specific dates reserved with wilderness permits. We can usually get reservations for most dates and there are other camping options if we are unable to obtain a wilderness camping permit.

Here's the schedule for your trip:

  • Day 1 - Gear Check and Approach to Boston Basin - Gear Check: Meet early for a gear check in Marblemont, WA. Our guides will double check that you have all the right gear for the trip and help you minimize weight, decide on the perfect layers to pack, and choose how much food and water to bring.
    Approach to Boston Basin: Roughly 3-4 hours to camp with 3,000’ of elevation gain over 3 miles on a rough climber’s trail. We’ll get to camp, brush up on skills and get to bed early to rest up before our alpine start the next morning.

  • Day 2 -Traverse Boston & Camp on the North Ridge - With an early start, we ascend to the Sharkfin Col where we rappel onto the Boston Glacier. After Traversing the Boston Glacier to the North Ridge of Forbidden, we make a short but awkward ascent to a saddle on the knife-edge North ridge of Forbidden, where we set camp on a wildly exposed bivy site. High above the Boston and Forbidden Glaciers, we prepare for summit day and rest for the night.

  • Day 3 - Summit Attempt We rise before dawn to get to the start of challenging climbing by first light. There are two options for this climb, one directly up the rock ridge to the summit of Forbidden Peak, and the other up a steep snow and alpine ice face. You and your guide will determine which route is best for your team based on skills, desire and conditions. This is a committing route, with little option for retreat, so it is imperative that you have the skills, strength and endurance to make the summit.
    After gaining the summit, we descend the lengthy and wildly exposed West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. This descent requires substantial down climbing on steep rock, rappelling, and descending on steep snow with crampons and ice axe. Back at camp, we pack up and head back to the trailhead to finish the trip. The descent usually takes 2.5-3.5 hours.

Here are the skills and fitness you'll need for your course:

  • Intermediate Alpine Climbing Experience - Including basic rope skills, experience with belaying, rappelling and technical climbing on 4th and 5th class rock. Depending on the time of year, crampon and ice axe techniques may be required. Looking to build these skills? Join us for an Intro to Mountaineering course!

  • Excellent fitness - Able to spend 12-16 continuous hours outside, moving uphill at over 1,000’ per hour for durations of 1-2 hours between breaks. Participants should be able to hike 12-15 miles, climbing 3,000-6,000 vertical feet throughout the course of the day. People with excellent fitness typically have a strenuous workout 4-6 days per week. Be ready for a sufferfest!

Here's what's included with your trip:

  • Experienced AMGA Trained Guide
  • North Cascades National Park Permit
  • Ropes & Gear
  • SlingFin Tent
  • Stove & Fuel
  • Group Safety Gear - your guide will be equipped with snow science tools and a first aid kit
  • Wag Bags - for human waste disposal in with compliance 'Leave No Trace' principles
Not Included
  • Meals
  • Transportation
  • Personal Mountaineering Gear - ice axe, crampons, climbing harness
  • Guide Gratuities

North Cascades Alpine Climbing Gear List


Know Before you go

SKILL LEVELIntermediate Advanced
ELEVATION3,000-9,000'
LocationNorth Cascades

Price/Person $1,495.00
Private Programs
Duration: 3 Days
View Full Itinerary
Private Programs

Blackbird Mountain Guides offers both scheduled group programs and private programs.

Private programs are simply above and beyond what Blackbird Mountain Guides currently has scheduled. Scheduled courses are not always less expensive. Before booking a trip with Blackbird Mountain Guides, clients are encouraged to review the differences between these types of programs, and to decide what works best for them.

SCHEDULED PROGRAMS

Scheduled Programs have fixed dates, itineraries, objectives, curriculum, and costs. They typically appeal to solo individuals or small groups or who are looking to share the cost of their program with a larger group. Correspondingly, scheduled programs are less expensive for smaller groups (1-2), and they provide the opportunity to meet others with similar interests. If you have a large group (3+), Scheduled programs will often be more expensive. They can fill up quickly, and scheduling flexibility is obviously limited.

Scheduled programs will have advertised dates. All scheduled programs can be run as private programs with private dates/rates as well.

PRIVATE PROGRAMS

Private programs have scheduling freedom. They typically appeal to those who would like some flexibility in planning their own trip or course. In this regard, Itineraries and objectives can be tailored to suit current conditions as well as client goals. Private programs are normally less expensive for larger groups (3+). If you have a small group (1-2) private programs will be more expensive.

Contact us
Full Itinerary

Day 1 -  Gear Check and Approach to Boston Basin

Gear Check: Meet early for a gear check in Marblemont, WA. Our guides will double check that you have all the right gear for the trip and help you minimize weight, decide on the perfect layers to pack, and choose how much food and water to bring. 

Approach to Boston Basin:  Roughly 3-4 hours to camp with 3,000’ of elevation gain over 3 miles on a rough climber’s trail.  We’ll get to camp, brush up on skills and get to bed early to rest up before our alpine start the next morning.

Day 2 - Summit Day

We rise before dawn to get to the start of challenging climbing by first light. The climb begins with moderate snow, then steepens into the snow couloir to 50 degrees and/or the Cat Scratch Gullies which get us to the notch at the base of the West Ridge.  The rock climbing begins here and we climb roughly 8 pitches of 5th class granite to the summit.  After a quick break on top, we make the lengthy descent back down the West Ridge.  Dinner back at camp.

Day 3 - Return to the trailhead

After some much earned sleep, we pack up camp and head back to the trailhead to finish the trip. The descent usually takes 2.5-3.5 hours.

We'll tackle the following objectives and skills:

  • Push Your Limits - Take your alpine climbing to the next level with one of the 50 Classics Climbs of North America!

  • The Route - The West Ridge route begins from camp with a perfect warm up climb up on angle snow and a rapidly receding glacier, which soon becomes a steep snow couloir. In early season, this couloir extends to the notch at the start of the West Ridge proper and later it becomes difficult and climbers opt to take the Cat Scratch Gullies, a scrappy option that lends some grit to the climb.

  • Summit Attempt - Once at the notch, beautiful granite is the only thing between you and the summit. The climbing is grippy, blocky and featured and mostly low 5th class. The crux weighs in at 5.6 but isn’t sustained for long and the exposure is as incredible as the views. The movement is fun and fluid and it makes for a great climb. Once atop Forbidden’s small summit block, climbers are rewarded with incredible views of Mt Buckner, the Boston Glacier, the Forbidden Glacier, Johannesburg Peak.

  • Descent - After taking a few moments on the summit, it’s time to descend. The easiest way down is to reverse the ascent, and this is often as time consuming as the ascent. Be ready for engaging down-climbing and rappels.
  • * Non-Reserved Wilderness mean that we do not currently have specific dates reserved with wilderness permits. We can usually get reservations for most dates and there are other camping options if we are unable to obtain a wilderness camping permit.

Here's the schedule for your trip:

  • Day 1 - Gear Check and Approach to Boston Basin - Gear Check: Meet early for a gear check in Marblemont, WA. Our guides will double check that you have all the right gear for the trip and help you minimize weight, decide on the perfect layers to pack, and choose how much food and water to bring.
    Approach to Boston Basin: Roughly 3-4 hours to camp with 3,000’ of elevation gain over 3 miles on a rough climber’s trail. We’ll get to camp, brush up on skills and get to bed early to rest up before our alpine start the next morning.

  • Day 2 -Traverse Boston & Camp on the North Ridge - With an early start, we ascend to the Sharkfin Col where we rappel onto the Boston Glacier. After Traversing the Boston Glacier to the North Ridge of Forbidden, we make a short but awkward ascent to a saddle on the knife-edge North ridge of Forbidden, where we set camp on a wildly exposed bivy site. High above the Boston and Forbidden Glaciers, we prepare for summit day and rest for the night.

  • Day 3 - Summit Attempt We rise before dawn to get to the start of challenging climbing by first light. There are two options for this climb, one directly up the rock ridge to the summit of Forbidden Peak, and the other up a steep snow and alpine ice face. You and your guide will determine which route is best for your team based on skills, desire and conditions. This is a committing route, with little option for retreat, so it is imperative that you have the skills, strength and endurance to make the summit.
    After gaining the summit, we descend the lengthy and wildly exposed West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. This descent requires substantial down climbing on steep rock, rappelling, and descending on steep snow with crampons and ice axe. Back at camp, we pack up and head back to the trailhead to finish the trip. The descent usually takes 2.5-3.5 hours.

Here are the skills and fitness you'll need for your course:

  • Intermediate Alpine Climbing Experience - Including basic rope skills, experience with belaying, rappelling and technical climbing on 4th and 5th class rock. Depending on the time of year, crampon and ice axe techniques may be required. Looking to build these skills? Join us for an Intro to Mountaineering course!

  • Excellent fitness - Able to spend 12-16 continuous hours outside, moving uphill at over 1,000’ per hour for durations of 1-2 hours between breaks. Participants should be able to hike 12-15 miles, climbing 3,000-6,000 vertical feet throughout the course of the day. People with excellent fitness typically have a strenuous workout 4-6 days per week. Be ready for a sufferfest!

Here's what's included with your trip:

  • Experienced AMGA Trained Guide
  • North Cascades National Park Permit
  • Ropes & Gear
  • SlingFin Tent
  • Stove & Fuel
  • Group Safety Gear - your guide will be equipped with snow science tools and a first aid kit
  • Wag Bags - for human waste disposal in with compliance 'Leave No Trace' principles
Not Included
  • Meals
  • Transportation
  • Personal Mountaineering Gear - ice axe, crampons, climbing harness
  • Guide Gratuities

North Cascades Alpine Climbing Gear List

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Epic Reviews From Adventurers

12 reviews
  • Rated 5 out of 5 stars
    Literally the best guide I’ve come across!

    Zeb at Blackbird Mountain Guides is literally the best guide I've come across. I've worked with Zeb twice now including the most recent trip up Mt. Baker with my wife. Zeb provides excellent knowledge, route finding, and pace. Most importantly, his great attitude and patience really made the trip, especially for relative climbing novices like us. Put simply, Zeb is the best. I trust him and will definitely work with Blackbird Mountain Guides again!

    A B.
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    Mt Baker Summit Climb
  • Rated 5 out of 5 stars
    Plan to climb with Blackbird again!

    Zeb was great! Great planning; flexible; affordable; and customized the trip for me. Also was fun to climb with. Plan to climb with Blackbird again!

    Will D.
    Flag of United States
    Mt Baker Summit Climb - Private
  • Rated 5 out of 5 stars
    Coudn't have imagined a better Rainier Summit!

    Blackbird Guides is the best! I've been using their services for about 3 years and every adventure has been absolutely incredible. Each of the guides are full of knowledge and incredibly good at passing along their years of expertise. I just summited Rainier with Brandon and Andrew and I couldn't have imagined a better experience all around. I refer everyone I know to Blackbird.

    April H.
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    Verified Buyer
    Mt Rainier Summit & Skills Expedition 5 Day
  • Rated 5 out of 5 stars
    Much better than expected.

    BlackBird guides were professional. I highly recommend them.

    Justin
    Mt Baker Summit Climb - Private
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