Looking down on the snow covered Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn just below the shoulder.  Photo © Zeb Blais/Blackbird Mountain Guides

The Weather Forecast was not lining up for a summit.

Our trip felt like it was over before it even started.  Just days before our climb of the Matterhorn was set to happen, the weather forecast looked dismal— new snow and storms filled each day.  Before Saurabh arrived, I was scrambling to find options to pivot, change the summit dates and find a workable weather window.  With no certain stable weather windows appearing, we kept our hut reservations and logistics in place, and kept close tabs on the forecast.

The weather forecast was a roller coaster ride.  Stability and sun would appear one day and disappear the next.  We were optimistic, but with a lot of disagreement between various weather models, there was little to do but put our faith in optimism and go for it.     

Climbers navigate snow covered rocks as they ascend the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn. Photo © Zeb Blais / Blackbird Mountain Guides

We hiked into the Hornli Hut, with our attention perpetually drawn to the southeast slopes above. As we arrived, the snow had already begun to melt off of the lower slopes, but the upper mountain was covered in thick cloud and the temperatures were cool.  Would the snow melt from the rocks?  And if it did, would it form verglas, a thin, nearly invisible veneer of ice, on key footholds that would make the route insecure and dangerous?

We geared up to preview what we could of the route. Travelling a few hundred feet up, we hoped to understand what the conditions might be like up high on our summit day.  We were enthused by what we saw - the route 1/3 of the way to the Solvay was completely dry - easy travel!  We crossed our fingers, hoping that the hot rock of the Hornli Ridge would continue to melt snow and dry the mountain to the Solvay Hut.  

A light dusting of snow covers the Hornli Ridge below the Mosely Slabs on the Matterhorn.  Photo: Zeb Blais

A Slippery Start

With a flexible itinerary, and a new, more favorable weather forecast, we woke later than most groups.  We wanted to use more daylight on snowier areas on the mountain and also hoped to benefit from the heat of the day clearing snow below the shoulder.  

Stepping outside in the dark early morning, we were dismayed: new snow had fallen over night!  It was just a dusting, but it was all the way down to the Hornli Hut! It wasn't much, but it was enough to make the rocks slick and get our gloves wet right from the start.

Sunrise bringing some fresh energy to climbers on the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn.  We added our crampons just after this picture was taken, before the Mosely Slabs.  Photo © Zeb Blais

Despite the snow, we started without crampons, using dirt patches and positive rock features for security as we climbed.  Surfaces remained slick and slab features were out of the question, but we were moving well and were able to climb efficiently without slipping.  

Finding Our Groove

Just before a tricky section called the Moseley Slabs, known for its steep and awkward moves, we stopped to put on our crampons. The steel tines of our crampons pierced the snow and ice, adding the security and confidence we needed to move quickly.  We passed slower teams that had started well before us, pulling ahead just before the lower Mosely Slab, a bottleneck that slows to a crawl as teams navigate the steeper moves before the Solvay Hut.

Saurabh, my client for the Matterhorn, was in great shape.  Cardiovascular fitness is a major part of climbing the Matterhorn, so this was a major help in overcoming the challenges on the mountain.   Breaking for only a couple of minutes at the Solvay, we pushed on, maintaining our solid pace.  We passed more teams above the Solvay, allowing us to be ahead of slower groups on the more difficult sections that often cause significant delays.  

Significant new snow on the Shoulder of the Matterhorn on the Hornli Ridge Route.  Photo © Zeb Blais

On the upper mountain, the snow actually improved sections of the climb. The shoulder and the Roof were fast, secure and comfortable in crampons.  Ten days earlier, the Roof had been dry water ice up to the summit, making the climbing more challenging.  While the new snow hid some features, it also made some easier steps in places.  

A Perfect Summit Day

What we had thought might be a dangerous and arduous summit attempt, ended up being a perfect summit day.   Despite some tricky and slippery climbing early on in the day, we made great time - 4:30 to the Swiss summit!  

Climbers ascending the fixed lines below the Shoulder of the Matterhorn.  Photo © Zeb Blais

Summit success on the Matterhorn! Photo © Zeb Blais

Blackbird client Saurabh on the Swiss summit of the Matterhorn.  Photo © Zeb Blais

The Descent

Having reached the summit feeling good and in great time, we prepared for the descent.  The warmth of the day had been working it's magic on the snow, and while the Roof remained cold snow on ice, the shoulder had already started to melt.  Below the shoulder we felt confident to remove our crampons, which increased our speed on the rocky terrain. 

The rock was wet, but too warm for ice to surprise us.  We moved quickly and confidently down the mountain, taking our time on trickier sections like the Upper Mosely Slab which was slick from melted snow tricking down it.

The Roof of the Matterhorn as seen descending from the Summit. Photo © Zeb Blais

Below the Mosely Slabs, the rock had dried completely.  What had been insecure, slippery climbing or climbing in crampons was now fast travel with boots on dry rock.  

And just as quickly as the snow arrived on the Matterhorn, it disappeared.  Taken July 23 (day after our summit) Photo © Zeb Blais

Key Takeaways from Climbing the Matterhorn in Difficult Conditions

The Matterhorn is an exposed and dangerous climb. On average, it claims the lives of around 12 climbers per year.  Conditions on the mountain change quickly and the weather can be difficult to forecast.  Moving quickly is a huge part of a safe and successful summit and it's critical to accurately assess and manage the conditions and weather on the mountain.

While there are times that a climb can be called off due to a weather forecast, this was a perfect example of the old phrase "you must be present to win."  Conditions and forecasts seemed to be stacked against us until the last second, but there was a glimmer of hope in the forecast and conditions were mostly unknown.  Reports from the hut guardians and pictures we were able to snap from town were what we were going on.  Local guides had largely decided against a summit attempt that day, which didn't bode well for our attempt. 

We showed optimistically, ready for a tough climb and willing to turn around if necessary.  We assessed conditions as we climbed and were thinking ahead to how the conditions would be on the descent.  Our persistence paid off and we were rewarded with surprisingly good conditions and a fabulous summit of the Matterhorn!

So you want to Climb the The Matterhorn? 

The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic mountains in the world and reaching its summit is a massive achievement.  It's a serious undertaking that requires numerous skills and excellent fitness.  The climb is fast-paced, with little time for breaks and fumbling with gear or layers - we often refer to it as a 4,000' vertical sprint on 4th class terrain.  It requires speed and efficiency on difficult and exposed terrain, and the use of climbing gear, fixed ropes and layers must be second nature. 

The Matterhorn is hard summit to attain and Blackbird Mountain Guides' team of IFMGA guides know the best approach for summit success.  From gear selection to mountain strategy, we'll set you up for your best chance to stand on top of Europe's most legendary peak.  From start times and hazards on the route to lifts and trains to hut bookings, our team will make sure everything runs as smoothly as it can on the mountain.   

The best way prepare for the Matterhorn is to do a few days of Private Climbing with us prior to summit attempt.  This will help you acclimatize to the altitude and ensure that your skills are sharp before we rope up together and climb the most iconic peak in Europe!

Book ahead - Huts Sell Out extremely quickly and our guide team has limited availability!  The best chance of success is to book a full year in advance to get the optimal times for hut reservations in the prime climbing season.

 Climb with us on The Matterhorn!

We're happy to answer any questions you might have about the climb or our guides so reach out today!

About the Author

Zeb Blais is an American / IFMGA Mountain Guide with 4 summits of the Matterhorn, including a solo climb.  He loves all the disciplines of mountain guiding - ski, rock and alpine climbing - and tries to spend as much time as he can in the French, Swiss and Italian Alps.  He has summitted multiple 4,000m peaks in the alps and loves exploring new peaks and new routes with clients.