Rock climbers from across the globe flock to California for its pristine granite climbing, and Tahoe is home to some of the California's best rock climbs. Whether you're looking for single pitch hard single pitch climbing or more moderate multi pitch climbing, Tahoe has as abundance of options. In this blog, I'm going to highlight two of my favorite places to rock climb in Tahoe and five of the best rock climbs in Tahoe under 5.9.
The two Tahoe rock climbing areas I'm going to highlight are Donner Summit and Lover’s Leap. These are the two most classic, tried and true areas in Tahoe and it's hard to have a bad day on the rock in either spot. Plus, my 5 favorite rock climbs under 5.9 happen to be in these two areas.
While both places are incredible and have a lot to offer in the single pitch and multi pitch worlds, they both excel in their own ways. Donner summit is more known for its single pitch climbing while Lover’s Leap is known for its moderate multi-pitch climbing. That being said, you can find either at both locations. My personal favorite is Lover’s Leap, the quality and style is something I have rarely found anywhere else and every route I have climbed there, has had me smiling. Now, here are my top five routes in the 5.9 range from both locations:
The 5 Best Rock Climbs in Tahoe Under 5.9
1. One Hand Clapping | 5.9 - Trad - 3 Pitches
This route is at Donner Summit, on Black Wall. Black wall is full of fantastic multi pitch climbing, however, it is an after 3pm wall in the summer time as it gets sun all day. One Hand Clapping is a three pitch route that checks all the boxes for me. This route has splitter crack climbing, wild exposed moves and finished with a mellow crack to the top to cool down on. The first pitch is the splitter, it is a 5.8 hand crack that seems never ending… I love long pitches. The second pitch is the name sake pitch, it is a funky 5.9 pitch that holds the exposed and tricky “one hand clapping” move ending on a giant ledge system. The third pitch is a mellow crack system, maybe 5.6, that leads to the top. This is my favorite Tahoe route to date, it is very enjoyable.
2. Haystack | 5.8 - Trad - 3 Pitches
A true Lover’s Leap classic, and my favorite at the Leap. Haystack is fairly sustained the whole time, every pitch has at least one 5.8 move. The crux of the route is seen on pitch two, a semi large roof move, but don’t be scared, as far as roof moves go, it is ideal. The move is blessed with decent foot holds and bomber hand jams and jugs to grab onto, it also protects super well. If you are new to 5.8 climbing or pulling through roofs, this is the route for you! Everybody that climbs it, loves it. It is an area classic for a reason. As with most Lover’s Leap routes, the last pitch is blocky and a bit easier, but this route stands out to me because it still does have a few tricky moves on the last pitch. I highly recommend this route on your next trip to the Leap.
3. Bear’s Reach | 5.7 - Trad - 3 Pitches
This route is one of the most popular routes at the Leap, with good reason. I have climbed this route many times and always enjoy it. The climbing, while not hard or scary, still has you thinking and moving with purpose. The second pitch is where the name comes from, one long reach move about one third of the way through can be tough for the shorter folks but, not impossible. This route climbs really well, protects well, and has some long pitches, making it another one of my favorite Tahoe routes. Ask anybody, this route rocks. Make sure to show up early for this one or be prepared to wait in line.
4. Composure | 5.6 - Trad - 1 Pitch
A single pitch favorite of mine on Donner Summit is Composure. This route is a fantastic introduction to crack climbing and is super fun for the grade. It can be done purely as a crack climb, or face holds and feet can be added if you are still dialing in your crack climbing skills. This route also shares anchor bolts with a few other routes nearby, a 5.10 and a 5.7, making it a fun route to lead that allows for other top-roping options once the anchor is established. This is one of my favorites to share with my friends and clients - but beware - it's high-quality climbing at a easy grade means its widely loved and widely lined up on! An earlier start or some time waiting in line is often what's needed to enjoy this moderate trad classic.
5. Nova Express | 5.9+ - Trad - 1 Pitch
Nova Express is a solid 5.9 crack climb, that tests a variety of crack climbing skills. Many find it burly for the grade, but few would argue with the quality of the climb. Nova gets five-stars in my book. With that being said, if you're a confident and well-versed 5.9 crack climber, it is a lovely and long pitch of crack climbing where you will enjoy some finger locks, some incredible hand jams, and maybe a fist jam or two depending on your hand size. This route is well known in Tahoe for being hard for the grade, but with a little coaching and persistence, is a very enjoyable pitch. If you are trying to improve your technique, get on this route!
I could go on and on about Tahoe classics but these are just a few of my favorites for somebody climbing in the 5.9 range or looking to break into the grade. Climbing new routes can be scary, no matter how hard, but these all protect very well and require techniques that can only be taught on the wall. I highly recommend all of these routes and hope you get as much joy form them as I do. Thanks for reading, and see ya out there.
Want to climb the Tahoe classics with us this summer?
We'd love to share our favorite rock climbs with you! From Donner Summit Granite cracks to Big Chief volcanic conglomerate to the wild, unique features of Lovers Leap and Calaveras Dome, we'd love to show you our favorite climbs in the area.
Not an outdoor rock climber? Take a gym to crag course with us and learn all about how to safely climb outside. We can also show you how to learn anchor building, rock rescue and trad climbing!
- Intro to Outdoor Rock Climbing in Tahoe
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Intro to Trad Climbing
- Rock Climbing Anchor Building Course in Tahoe
About the Author
Sean Willis is a skier, alpine climber, and above all else, a rock climber. He's based in Lake Tahoe, California loves showing people his favorite rock routes in Tahoe while guiding for Blackbird Mountain Guides. Sean is an AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor, Apprentice Rock Guide and Apprentice Alpine Guide. Beyond rock guiding, Sean enjoys teaching rock and alpine skills courses and spends his free time pulling really hard on rocks. His hardest rock climbs to date are Thugagra 13a/Sport, Ten Sleep, Wyoming and Panic in Detroit 12c/Trad, Donner Summit, California.