How to Climb Mt. Baker: Routes, Seasons, Gear, and Guide Tips for a Successful Summit

Photo: View looking up the Coleman Glacier towards the summit of Mt Baker

Why Mt. Baker Is One of the Best Beginner Glaciated Peaks in the U.S.

At 10,781 feet, Mt. Baker (Kulshan) rises dramatically from the North Cascades, its 11 active glaciers and sweeping ridgelines visible for miles. As one of the most accessible glaciated volcanoes in the Lower 48, Mt. Baker is a classic first summit for new alpinists and a beloved training ground for more experienced climbers.

In this guide, we’ll cover:

• The best Mt. Baker climbing routes

• When to climb Mt. Baker

• What gear to bring

• What to expect on a guided Mt. Baker climb

Whether you’re planning your first glacier climb or looking to prep for peaks like Rainier or Denali, Mt. Baker delivers high rewards with reasonable effort—and incredible scenery.

Why Climb Mt. Baker?

• Accessible and scenic: Easily reached from Seattle or Bellingham, with jaw-dropping views from the first mile

• Beginner to advanced routes: Non-technical glacier climbs and steep alpine lines

• Training opportunity: Perfect for building skills like glacier travel, crampon technique, and crevasse rescue

• Efficient trips: Reach the summit in just 1–3 days

• Progression peak: Ideal prep for larger objectives across the Cascades, Alaska, and the Alps

Mt. Baker Climbing Routes

1. Coleman-Deming Route – Most Popular and Beginner-Friendly

• Trailhead: Heliotrope Ridge, 3,665 ft. (North Side)

• Elevation Gain: 7,000 ft

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Glacier Travel: Yes

• Best Time: May to early July

The Coleman-Deming route is the classic way to summit Mt. Baker. Starting deep in the forest on the mountain’s northwest side, climbers pass through Hogsback Camp at 6,200 ft., before winding up the Coleman Glacier, across the Deming Glacier, and scale the steep Roman Wall en route to the summit.. It's the most commonly guided route and ideal for newer climbers looking to gain glacier experience.

2. Easton Glacier Route – Direct and Scenic

• Trailhead: Schriebers Meadow, 3,345 ft. (South Side)

• Elevation Gain: 7,500 ft

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Glacier Travel: Yes

• Best Time: May to July

The classic south-side route offers a gradual and scenic climb up the Easton Glacier. It's often chosen for its consistent snow conditions and smooth ascent. The approach is a little bit longer, but base camping below the glacier is spectacular.

3. North Ridge – Classic Steep Alpine Climb

• Trailhead: Heliotrope Ridge, 3,665 ft.

• Elevation Gain: ~7,200 ft

• Difficulty: Advanced

• Best Time: June to early August

The North Ridge is a highly aesthetic and technical alpine climb featuring steep snow, ice pitches, and exposed snow climbing on the ridge. It's a favorite among experienced alpinists looking for a challenging and rewarding route. Often climbed with two tools and protection placed in ice.

4. Squak Glacier – Less Crowded Alternative

• Trailhead: Schriebers Meadow, 3,345 ft. 

• Elevation Gain: ~7,500 ft.

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Best Time: May to June

This quieter route starts on the beautiful Scott Paul Trail, and meets up with the Easton Glacier route at the dramatic 9,000-foot steam vent. It offers similar terrain and difficulty, with a more isolated feel.

Best Time of Year to Climb Mt. Baker

Pro Tip:

Aim for late May through early July for the best combination of good weather, stable snow, and easier glacier navigation.

What to Expect on a Guided Mt. Baker Climb

A typical 3-day guided Mt. Baker climb gives you time to acclimate, learn key mountaineering skills, and safely attempt the summit.

Sample Itinerary – Coleman-Deming Route

• Day 1: Meet at trailhead, hike to Hogsback Camp (~6,200 ft), set up camp

• Day 2: Skills training—ice axe, crampons, glacier travel, rope systems

• Day 3: Pre-dawn start for summit push (~2–3 a.m.), return to camp, pack up, hike out
  
  

Interested in a guided trip? Explore our Mt. Baker Climbing Programs to gain confidence and skills with professional instruction.

Photo: A Climber rescuing a climber during a crevasse rescue course on Mt Baker

Unless you have solid glacier travel experience and training in crevasse rescue techniques, a guided climb of Mt Baker is safer way to reach the summit!

Gear You Need for Mt. Baker Climbing

Technical Gear

• Mountaineering boots (crampon compatible)

• Ice axe + crampons

• Helmet + harness

• Glacier rope + crevasse rescue kit (prusiks, pulley, carabiners, slings)

• Headlamp + backup batteries

• GPS (e.g. Garmin InReach) or map + compass

Camping & Clothing

• 4-season tent 

• Sleeping bag (15°-20°F recommended)

• Inflatable Sleeping Pad (e.g. Thermarest X-Therm)

• Down jacket, hard shell layers, and warm midlayers

• Glacier glasses + goggles

• High-calorie food + stove

➡️ Need help packing? Check out our Mt. Baker Climbing Gear List for a complete breakdown.

Permits and Access Information

• Trailhead Parking: Northwest Forest Pass required

• Climbing Permits: No summit permit required for Mt. Baker (unlike Mt Rainier or Mt Shasta), but follow Leave No Trace principles

• Road Access: Some trailheads (esp. Schriebers Meadow) may be snow-covered into June. Check USFS reports before heading out.

Client Testimonials

"Climbing Mt. Baker with a guide gave me the skills and confidence to plan future glacier trips. The views were incredible, and the Roman Wall climb at sunrise was unforgettable."

— Emily S., Portland, OR

Key Takeaways

• Mt. Baker is one of the best intro-to-glacier peaks in the Lower 48

• Coleman-Deming and Easton Glacier routes are top choices for new climbers

• Aim for May to July for ideal climbing conditions

• Guided trips offer safety, skills training, and summit support

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

❓ Can I climb Mt. Baker without a guide?
A: Yes, but only if you have strong glacier travel, navigation, and rescue skills. Otherwise, go guided for safety.

❓How hard is it to climb Mt. Baker?
A: The Coleman-Deming and Easton routes are non-technical but require good fitness, basic mountaineering skills, and the ability to travel roped on glaciers.

❓ Is there cell service on Mt. Baker?
A: Coverage is very limited or nonexistent above treeline. Bring a satellite communication device for safety.

❓ Is Mt. Baker good training for Rainier or Denali?
A: Absolutely. With crevasses, alpine starts, and route finding challenges, it's ideal preparation.

About the Author

Andrew Richardson is an AMGA Assistant Ski Guide, AIARE Course Leader, and seasoned backcountry guide with over 30 years of experience in the mountains. Based in the Pacific Northwest since 2007, he guides ski mountaineering trips, teaches avalanche safety courses, and helps clients build the skills and confidence to explore the backcountry safely. A lifelong skier raised in Northern California, Andrew has skied everything from the couloirs of the Tetons to the flanks of Denali. When he's not guiding, he’s a strength and endurance coach with Samsara Experience, training athletes to perform at their peak in the mountains and beyond.