Understanding the Yosemite Decimal System: A Guide to Rock Climbing Grades in North America

As a beginner rock climber or foreign climber trying to climb in North America, you'll want to become familiar with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).   The YDS is a system for grading the technical difficulty of rock climbs in North America.  Understanding this system is crucial for selecting routes that match your skill level and for tracking your progress. In this guide, we'll break down the YDS to help you confidently navigate climbs throughout North America.

What is the Yosemite Decimal System?

The Yosemite Decimal System is a five-class scale that categorizes the technical difficulty of various terrain, from simple walking paths to highly technical rock climbs. Developed in the 1930s by the Sierra Club, the YDS has become the standard grading system for rock climbing in the United States.

The Five Classes of the YDS

1. Class 1: Easy hiking on well-marked trails. Think of it as a casual walk in the park.
2. Class 2: More rugged hiking that might require occasional use of hands for balance. The terrain can include steeper sections and loose rocks.
3. Class 3: Scrambling, where handholds are often needed. A fall could be dangerous, so caution is required. Some climbers might use a rope for added safety.
4. Class 4: Simple climbing, often with exposure. Ropes are sometimes used for safety due to the risk of a serious fall.
5. Class 5: Technical rock climbing where a rope is typically used to protect climbers from a fall.  Climbing without a rope in this type of terrain is extremely dangerous and a fall would most likely be lethal. This class is divided into sub-grades to indicate increasing levels of difficulty.

5th Class Climbing: The Decimals of the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)

5th Class rock climbing is where rock climbing truly begins.  5th Class climbing is where competent teams consistently use a rope to protect the team from a fall. 

5th Class Rock is subdivided into Number Grades, which are the decimal digits after the 5 in YDS climbing grades.  5th class climbing starts with 5.0, the easiest 5th class climbing and currently progresses to 5.15. The scale is open ended, so if harder grades are climbed, new subgrades can be added, i.e. 5.16. 

Each Number Grade above 5.9 is given 4 Letter Grades to further differentiate the climbing within the Number Grade.  This means for climbs that are rated 5.10, there are 4 levels of difficulty ranging from "a" to "d".  For example, 5.10d is 3 letter grades harder than 5.10a and a 5.11a would be a full number grade higher than 5.10a.  You'll often hear a climber say "that climb is a full number grade harder than this climb."  

Here’s a Quick Breakdown of How the Yosemite Decimal System Works:

• 5.0 - 5.4: Easy climbing. These routes have large holds and are often suitable for beginners.
• 5.5 - 5.7: Intermediate climbing. Routes have smaller holds and more challenging moves.
• 5.8 - 5.9: Advanced climbing. Expect smaller, less obvious holds and more technical moves.
• At 5.10 and up, grades are further defined by letters a through d.  Referred to as "letter grades", the subgrades a, b, c and d indicate hardness within the number grade, with a being the easiest and d being the hardest.  At the time the YDS was developed, climbers didn't believe that climbing could progress beyond 5.10, and no o
• 5.10a - 5.10d: Experienced climbers only. The holds are small, the moves are complex, and the endurance required increases.
• 5.11a - 5.11d: Expert climbing. These routes demand excellent technique, strength, and endurance.
• 5.12a and above: Elite climbing. Only the best climbers can tackle these grades, which require exceptional skill, power, and mental fortitude.

Additional Symbols & Terminology

Sometimes, you’ll see additional symbols accompanying YDS grades:

• Letter Grades (a, b, c, d): These are letter grades denote the hardness within a number grade, with "a" being the easiest and "d" being the hardest.  For example, a 5.12c is 2 letter grades harder than a 5.12a climb.
• “+” or “-”: Indicates a climb that is slightly harder or easier than the number grade. For example, a 5.9+ is slightly harder than a standard 5.9 and a 5.9- is slightly easier.  For number grades 5.10 and harder, the plus indicates a letter grade of somewhere between c and d, and the minus indicates a subgrade between a and b.
• “R”: Indicates routes with significant risk due to poor protection. Falls could result in serious injury. 
• “X”: Denotes extremely dangerous routes where a fall would likely be fatal.
• Stiff, Sandbagged, Old School or Hard climbs Climbers often refer to climbs that feel harder than they're rated with these terms.  Often areas in which first ascents were put up early in modern rock climbing history (1950s, 60s and 70s) have very "Old School" ratings.  
• Soft climbs These are climbs in which climbers generally feel the routes are easier than the grade would suggest. If a climber says, that route felt soft, they mean that for the grade of climbing it was easier than expected.

Tips for Beginners

1. Start Slow: Begin with lower grades (5.0 - 5.4) to build your technique and confidence. Develop a foundation of climbing moves and comfort on the rock and don’t rush to climb harder routes.
2. Seek Guidance: Climbing with experienced partners or hiring an AMGA trained or certified climbing Guide can provide valuable insights and safety tips.
3. Focus on Technique: Good technique will serve you better than brute strength. Practice foot placement, balance, and efficient movement.
4. Safety First: Always use proper gear, check your knots, harnesses and belay setups, and make sure your belayer is paying attention. Safety should be your top priority.
5. Have Fun: Climbing is about enjoyment and personal challenge. Celebrate your progress, no matter how small.

Conclusion

If you're looking to climb rock in North Americal, the Yosemite Decimal System is an essential tool to help you choose appropriate routes and monitor your progress as you climb harder and harder routes. Understanding the grades will help you climb more safely and have a more rewarding climbing experience. So, grab your gear, hire a guide or find an experienced mentor and start exploring the vertical world. Happy climbing!